Thursday 13 November 2014

Knitted Christmas Heart decorations









I know knitted hearts are everywhere this Christmas but I couldn't resist having a go at making a few designs. These are so easy and quick to knit and can be made in lots of different colours to suit your Christmas Theme.  

If you try this pattern please leave me a comment as I would love some feedback.  If you're a member of Ravelry please post a project with links to the pattern.   Thanks.



Christmas Heart decorations Knitting pattern

You will need: Approx 25 g double knitting yarn in various colours
3.75 knitting needles, 3.25 crochet hook or tapestry needle, cable needle
small button, small amount of toy stuffing
Tension isn't important for this item but my tension on 3.75 needles over stocking stitch is 24sts x 30 rows to 4"
Size of heart 4" x 4" 

Abbreviations:  k: knit, p:purl, M1, make one by picking up loop between sts and knitting into back, St: stitch/es, k2tog, knit 2 together, C4b: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle, leave at back of work, k2, k sts from cable needle

Plain Heart

Make 2 peices = the front and back are the same

Using 3.75 needles cast on 3sts 
1st row       purl 
Next row:   k1, m1, k to last st, m1, kl 
Next row:   purl 
Repeat last 2 rows to 23sts ending on right side 
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch
Next row:  (right side) k11, cast off 1st, k11 
Turn and continue on 11 sts 
*Next row: purl 
Next row:   k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog 
Repeat last 2 rows to 3sts 
Cast off loosely 
Rejoin yarn to remaining 11sts, wrong side facing 
Work as first side from * 
Finishing 
Neaten ends on wrong side 
Place wrong sides together and beginning at lower edge of heart work a round of double crochet around edges working through both pieces to join, ending an inch before the beginning of round- do not break off yarn. 
Stuff lightly with toy stuffing, then continue with double crochet edging to beginning of round. Fasten off ends. 
OR work a round of blanket stitch through both edges to close and stuff as above. 
Crochet  30ch and sew onto heart at centre. 
Sew on small button. 


Striped Heart 

As above but working 2 rows of alternative colours. Beg each new colour on the purl row. 




Fair Isle Heart 

As above following the chart. 


fair isle chart




















Cable Heart

Make the front piece with cable and if preferred, make the back piece plain.

Using no 9 needles cast on 2sts 
1st row:     purl 
Next row:   k1, m1, k to last st, m1, kl 
Next row:   purl 
Repeat last 2 rows to 8sts ending on wrong side 
Next row:   k1, m1, p1, c4b, p1, m1, k1 
Next row:   p2, k1, p4, k1, p2 
Next row:   k2, m1, p1, k4, p1, m1, k2 
Next row:   p3, k1, p4, k1, p3 
Continue pattern as set increasing at each end of right side row to 24sts,ending on a right side
Work 3 rows stocking stitch
Next row:   k11, cast off 2sts , k11 
Turn and continue on 11 sts 
Work as plain heart from

Sunday 21 September 2014

Barbie in red - crochet dresses


A simple crochet pattern using basic stitches for 3 styles of red dress

fluffy neckline
peplum dress
frill hem
I had an odd ball of Patons soft cotton 4ply in a lovely shade of red in my stash.  So what else could I made but some little crochet dresses for Barbie. The soft cotton crochets so well and is lovely to work with but any 4ply will do'

Red dresses seem to be very popular this year, they are everywhere!  

Let me know if you try this pattern and I would love to hear your comments or see a photo.


Barbie's Red Crochet Dresses



To fit 12” Barbie (the latest model)

Materials:  approx 50g, 4ply cotton (or other 4ply yarn)
please note: not suitable for craft crochet thread
Small amount of eyelash yarn for dress with fluffly neckline
Crochet hook no 3.50 (or size to match tension)

Tension: (Gauge) 22sts x 24 rows to 4” over dc  (check your tension and use suitable size hook)
Abbreviations:
Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet) 
ch: htr: half treble, chain, sl st: slip stitch, inc: increase, beg: beginning

Note: These designs are worked in a continuous round so place a marker at beg of round to keep track of number of rounds.  
Work in back loop only as this is needed to make the peplum and ruffle hem.  It also gives a softer fabric 


Dress with fluffy neckline

Using no 3.50 hook make 30 chain 
Rounds 1-16:  dc around 
Shape waist:
Round 17:  dc 7, miss 1 dc, dc14, miss 1dc, dc 7, (28sts)
Round 18: dc 7, miss 1 dc, dc12, miss 1dc, dc 7, (26sts)
Rounds 19 – 22: dc around 
Round 23: dc 6, 2dc in next dc, dc 12, 2dc in next dc, dc to end (28sts)
Round 24: dc 7, 2dc in next dc, dc 12, 2dc in next dc, dc to end (30sts)
Rounds 25-28:    dc around
Shape armhole:
Round 29: dc 6, make 7 ch, miss 2dc, dc 14, make 7ch,miss 2dc, dc to end
Change to eyelash yarn
Round 30: dc 5, miss next dc, 1 dc in each of 7 ch, miss next dc, dc 5, miss next dc, dc6, miss next dc, dc in each of 7 ch, miss next dc, dc to end of round. Slst in next dc fasten off.  


Dress with peplum


Work as fluffy neckline dress to round 24. Place a marker at beg of round 16
Rounds 25:28 1dc in each of next 11dc, 1htr in each of next 3dc, 1slst in each of next 2dc, 1htr in each of next 3dc, 1dc in each of next 11dc.  
Fasten off yarn
Peplum 
Fold dress wrong sides together at round 16 to show loops, beg at centre back of dress
Using no 3.50 hook work through loops as follows:
Round 1:  insert hook through 1st loop and draw yarn through, make 3ch, (2tr in next loop, 1tr in each of next 2 loops) to end.  Slst in top of 3ch
Round 2:  3ch, (2tr in next tr, 1tr in each of next 3tr) to end.  Slst in top of 3ch
Round 3:  3ch, (2tr in next tr, 1tr in each of next 4tr) to end.  Slst in top of 3ch
Fasten off yarn



Dress with ruffle hem


Using no 3.50 hook make 30 chain 
Rounds 1-12:  dc around,   place a marker at round 4
Continue as fluffy neckline dress from round 17 to round 29
Next Round: dc 5, miss next dc, 1 dc in each of 7 ch, miss next dc, dc 5, miss next dc, dc6, miss next dc, dc in each of 7 ch, miss next dc, dc to end of round. Slst in next dc fasten off.  
Fasten off yarn

Ruffle hem
Fold dress wrong sides together at round 4 to show loops, beg at centre back of dress
Using no 3.50 hook work rounds through loops as follows:
Round 1:  insert hook through 1st loop and draw yarn through, make 3ch, (2tr in next loop, 1tr in next loop) to end.  Slst in top of 3ch
Round 2:  3ch, (2tr in next tr, 1tr in each of next 2tr) to end.  Slst in top of 3ch
Fasten off yarn

Rejoin yarn to base of dress at centre back, work rounds 1 and 2 as above.
Fasten off yarn

To Finish:  sew in all yarn ends.


PDF pattern to download

Sunday 29 June 2014

Teddy bear crochet dress and headband

Another crochet dress for your bears worked in double crochet rows for the bodice and treble crochet clusters for the skirt.  The pattern is in two sizes to fit most bears from 12" to 17".  All bears are different  and this pattern is so easy to adjust to fit - if you want to make the skirt longer just work an extra round of clusters or add a few more dc to the bodice to increase the width.


The model is my granddaughters Build a Bear 17" bunny wearing the larger size







This is build a bear Li'l Cub wearing the smaller size.






Teddy Bear crochet dress and headband pattern

To fit: 12/13" and 15/17" Bear (larger sizes are in brackets)
Actual measurements:  1st size:  chest 14", length from shoulder to hem 8.5"
                                  2nd size: chest 17", length from shoulder to hem 10"
Tension:  18 sts x 20 rows to 4” over dc using no 4 hook
Materials: 100g double knit yarn, small amount of contrast,  Hooks size 4.00mm and 4.50mm (or size to match tension) 
Abbreviations:  Ch, chain, dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet), ch: chain, slst: slip stitch, dec: decrease, m1dc: miss 1dc
Notes:
When working the clusters, work through both loops.
When working double crochet rows work in the front loop only and make one chain at beginning of row as an edge stitch - do not count this in stitch count.


Dress 

Bodice 

worked in rows (see note above)

Back
Using no 4 hook and main colour make 31 (37) chain
Next row:  1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each ch to end  (30 (36)dc)
Work 4 (5) rows dc
Armhole shaping   
Next row:  slst over next 3 (4)dc, 1dc in each of next 24 (28) dc, turn
Continue on 24 (28)dc as follows:
Next row:  m1dc, 1dc in each of next 21 (25) dc, m1dc, 1dc in next dc
(22 (26)dc)
Next row:  dc across
Next row:  m1dc, 1dc in each of next 19 (23) dc, m1dc, 1dc in next dc* 
(20 (24)dc)
2nd size only:   m1dc, 1dc in each of next 21 dc, m1dc, 1dc in next dc  (22dc)
Both sizes:   Next row:  dc across
Next row:  m1dc, 1dc in each of next 17 (19) dc, m1dc, 1dc in next dc 
18 (20) dc)
Pull yarn through and fasten off

Front
Work as back to *
2nd size only:   m1dc, 1dc in each of next 21 dc, m1dc, 1dc in next dc   (22dc)
Next row:  (buttonhole row) 1dc in each of next 2dc, 1ch, m1dc, 1dc in each of next 14 (16) dc, m1dc, 1ch, 1dc in each of next 2dc
Next row: m1dc, 1dc in next 17dc, m1dc, 1dc in next dc    (18 (20)dc)
Pull yarn through and fasten off

Sew side seams of bodice

Skirt 
worked in rounds
Using no 4.00 hook join contrast  yarn to base of bodice at centre back with right side facinG
Round 1:  2ch, work 1dc in each chain around.  Slst to top of 2ch at beg of round
Round 2:  2ch, work 1dc in each  dc around.  Slst to top of 2ch at beg of round
Change to main colour
Round 3:  2ch, work 1dc in each dc around.  Slst to top of 2ch at beg of round
Change to 4.50 hook and continue in main colour
Round 4:  3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in same dc, (miss 1 dc, 3tr in next dc) to end, slst in top of 3ch   30 (35) clusters
Round 5:  slst into next tr, 3ch, 2tr in same tr, (3tr into middle tr of next cluster) repeat to end 
Round 6: Repeat last round 1 (2) times
3 (4) rounds of 30 (35) clusters 
Round 7 (8): Change to contrast  and work dc around
Rep from round 2 to round 7(8)  once, 
(approx 43 (54) clusters on last round)                
Pull yarn through and fasten off


Straps

Using no 4.00 hook and main colour, make 
24ch,  Work 3 rows dc
pull yarn through and fasten off. (leave a trail for sewing)


To Finish

Using no 4.00 hook and contrast, work a round of dc around top edge of bodice.
Sew straps in place at back of bodice keeping in line with armholes.  Check length of straps over your bear’s shoulder, to ensure a good fit, then sew on buttons.  
Neaten ends.


Headband

Using no 4.00 hook and main, make 54 ch (check around bear’s head for good fit)
Work 3rounds dc
Pull yarn through and fasten off.

Motif
Using no 4.00 hook and contrast  made 3ch
Work 6dc in 3rd ch from hook, slst in top of 1st dc
(3ch, 2tr in same dc, slst in next dc) around.  Fasten off

To Finish
Sew motif on headband
Neaten ends.

Saturday 28 June 2014

Barbie knitted capri pants and cropped top





This design is made in 4ply yarn - ideal for using up those scraps of 4ply in your stash.  The legs of the pants are knit separately and then joined to knit the body with a centre back seam.  The cropped top is worked in one piece to armhole shaping with a centre back seam and one button fastening.
I've also added a cute headband!

 If you try the pattern please let me know if you have any problems


Thanks for your interest.







Barbie knitted capri pants and cropped top pattern

The pants have side leg seams and centre back seam.  
The top has a centre back seam with a button fastening

To fit: 12 in Barbie (latest model) 

Materials:  approx 25g 4ply knitting yarn in main and contrast colour, 1 small button
Needles size 3mm, and 3.25mm   ( US 2 and 3)
Tension: 30sts and  36rows over 4 in (stocking stitch) using 3.25 needles
Abbreviations:  k: knit, p: purl, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, yon: yarn on needle, rep: repeat, ss: stocking stitch, m1 pick up loop between sts and knit into back, tog: together, dec: decrease, inc: increase, psso: pass slipped stitch over

Capri Pants

Right leg
Using smaller needles and main cast on 14sts
Work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit) Change to larger needles 
Work 4 rows ss
Inc 1st at each end of next and every following 6th row to 22sts ending wrong side Work 2 rows ss*
Next row:  Cast off 1st, k to end
Next row:  Cast off 3sts p to end
Fasten off yarn leave a long enough tail for sewing leg seam
Leave 18sts on holder
Left leg
Work as right leg to *
Next row:  Cast off 3sst, k to end
Next row:  Cast off 1st p to end
Do not fasten off yarn

Joining legs

Slip sts from right leg onto left hand needle with right side facing, Slip sts from left leg onto left hand needle with right side facing, (see photo)  36sts on left hand needle



The 3 cast off sts should be on either side of the row.


Work as follows:
(K2tog, k14, k2tog) 2 times, across 36sts
Next row:  purl
Next row:  k2tog, k29, k2tog
Work 5 row ss ending with a purl row
Change to small needles
Work 4 rows of k1, p1, rib
Cast off loosely in rib.


Cropped Top

Using smaller needles and contrast cast on 30sts
Work 2 rows garter stitch
Change to main
Work 2 rows garter stitch
Change to larger needles and contrast
Work 4 rows ss
Next row:  Cast on 2sts, k to end (the 2 cast on stitches are for the under flap of back opening)   32sts
Next row: k2, p to last 2sts k2
Next row: knit
Repeat last 2 rows one time
Next row: k2, p to last 2sts k2

Shape armhole

Next row:  k8, cast off 3sts, k12, cast of 3sts, k to end
Next row:  (buttonhole row) k2tog, yon, p4, cast on 9sts, p12, cast on 9sts, p6, k2
Change to main 
Cast of loosely knit wise, when casting off work k2tog at either side of 9 cast on sts to shape neckline.
Fasten off yarn.


Headband

Using no 10 needles and main colour, cast on 30sts
Work 2 rows in garter stitch
Cast off,  sew into a round


To finish

Capri pants - sew side leg seams and rear seam.  Fasten off all ends
Top
Sew back seam to cast on sts of back edging, slst border flap in place.  Sew on small button to correspond with buttonhole.

Sunday 1 June 2014

Barbie crochet shorts and cropped top

This shorts and cropped top design was inspired by shopping with my granddaughters in Topshop. 

The pattern is worked in  continuous rounds through the back loop only for a softer fabric.  It was a bit tricky writing down the instructions for the shorts  but I put in some photos that should help.  If you have any problems with the pattern please let me know. 

I used Patons soft cotton 4ply as I have a stash of various colours to use up, but any 4ply should work.  Check your tension as yarns can differ in thickness and can make a bit difference with such a small garment. 

I would love to hear from you so please leave me a comment if you try the pattern.



Barbie crochet shorts and cropped top

To fit: 12" Barbie (the latest model)
Materials: 25g  4ply yarn will make both items, Crochet hook no 3.5
Tension: (Gauge) 24sts x 26 rows to 4" over dc using 3.50 hook (check your tension and use suitable size hook)
Abbreviations: Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet) ch: chain, slst: slip stitch, inc: increase, rnd/s: round/s
dec1dc: insert hook into next dc pull through yarn, insert hook into next dc pull through yarn, yarn over hook and pull all sts off 
Notes:
  • This item is a close fit so any differences in yarn weight will make a smaller or larger garment. Cotton thread is not suitable.
  • Work through the back loop only for a softer fabric
  • Place a marker at the beginning of each round to keep track of number of rounds

Shorts

Right leg
Using no 3.5 hook, make 20ch
Join into a round by making dc in first ch then work in continuous rounds

Rnds 1:3: dc all around
Pull yarn through and fasten off. leave a long enough tail for sewing seam

Left leg

As right leg ,  Don’t fasten off yarn,

Body



Position of legs before next round
 

 


work body of shorts across both legs as follows:

Rnd 1:  1dc in next 9dc,of left leg, miss 1dc, continue across to right leg, miss 1dc, 1dc in next 18dc, miss 1dc, continue across to left leg, miss 1dc, 1dc in next 9dc. (36dcs)

After Rnd 1







Rnd 2: 1dc in next 8dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 16dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 8dc (34dcs)


Rnd 3: 1dc in next 7dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 15dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 8dc (32dcs)

Rnd 4: 1dc in next 7dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 14dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 7dc (30dcs)


Rnd 5: dc all around


Rnd 6: dec1dc, 1dc in next 13dc, dec1dc, dc to end (28dcs)


Rnd 7: dec1dc, 1dc in next 12dc, dec1dc, dc to end (26dcs)


Rnd 8: dc all around

Pull yarn through and fasten off

 
 

Top


Using 3.5 hook make 28ch

Join into a round by making dc in first ch then work in continuous rounds

Rnd 1:6:  dc all around

Rnd 7:    1dc in each of next 6dc, make 9ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in each of next 12dc, make 9ch, miss 2dc, dc to end


Rnd 8:    1dc in each of next 4dc, dec1dc, 1 dc in each of 9ch, dec1dc, 1dc in each of next 8dc, dec1dc, 1dc in each of next 9ch, dec1dc, dc to end

Slst in next dc, pull yarn though and fasten off.

Edging

Rejoin yarn to centre back of base of top, right side facing.

3ch, 2trs in same space, (miss 1ch, 1dc in next ch, miss 1ch, 3trs in next ch) repeat around base of top (approx 8 clusters) Pull yarn through and fasten off.


To finish


Sew  seam of shorts. Neaten all ends.

 

 

Monday 26 May 2014

Barbie Crochet Nautical Dress


I've improvised my crochet dress pattern to make this blue and white crochet dress for Barbie.  The pattern uses 4ply yarn - I used Patons 4ply soft cotton, but any 4ply would work.  The bodice is made first in dc, from the waist to neckline, then the skirt is added from the waist to the hem.  The pattern is very easy, worked in continuous rounds and all you need to know is how to 
do double crochet, treble crochet and slip stitch.   

As the dress has no back opening and crochet is quite open be very careful when dressing barbie that her feet and hands dont catch the threads.

If you make the dress please let me know if you find any typos or other mistakes so I can amend the pattern.  And I would love to hear your comments.






Barbie Nautical theme Crochet dress


To fit: 12” Barbie (the latest model)
Materials: 25g 4ply yarn in blue, white and scrap of red ( I used Paton’s Soft Cotton 4ply)
Crochet hook no 3.5 and 3.00(or size to match tension)
Tension: (Gauge) 24sts x 26 rows to 4” over dc using 3.50 hook (check your tension and use suitable size hook)
Abbreviations:  Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet) ch: chain, slst: slip stitch, inc: increase


Notes: This dress is a close fit so any differences in yarn weight will make a smaller or larger garment. Cotton thread is not suitable.
Work through the back loop only for a softer fabric
The dress is worked in rounds, place a marker at the beginning of each round to keep track of number of rounds
 

Bodice  


Using no 3.5 hook and blue yarn, make 26ch
Rounds 1:2: dc all around
Round 3:4:   change to white yarn, dc all around
Round 5:      change to blue yarn, dc all around
Rounds 6:8: rep last 3 rounds
Round 9:     change to white yarn, 1dc in each of next 6dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 12dc, 2dc in next dc, dc to end (28dc)
Round 10:   dc all around
Round 11:   using blue, dc all around
Round 12:   change to white yarn, dc all around
Round 13:   1dc in each of next 6dc, make 8ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in each of next 12dc, make 8ch, miss 2dc, dc to end.
Round 14:   using red yarn 1dc in each of next 4dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 8ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 10dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 8ch, miss 1dc, dc to end.  Pull yarn through and fasten off.

Skirt  


using no 3.5 hook, rejoin blue yarn to base of bodice and work as follows:
Round 1:   3ch (counts as 1st tr) (2tr in next st, 1tr in next st) repeat to end slst in top of 3ch (38trs)
Rounds 2:3:  3ch, 1tr in each tr around, slst in top of 3ch,
Round 4:      2ch, 1dc in each tr around, slst in top of 2ch
Round 5:      2ch, 1dc in each dc around, slst in top of 2ch
Round 6:      3ch, (2tr in next dc, 1tr in each of next 2dc) repeat to end, slst in top of 3ch
Round 7:8:   3ch, 1tr in each tr around, slst in top of 3ch,

To finish - Pull yarn through and neaten all ends.


Motif
Using no 3hook make 3ch, work 6dc in 3rd ch from hook. Pull yarn through and fasten off
Sew motif on neckline as on photo


PDF pattern download


Thursday 24 April 2014

Teddy bear crochet dress

Lovely summer crochet dresses for 15" bears - great for build a bears.  This is an easy crochet pattern using only double crochet and treble crochet (UK) and using less than 100g double knitting yarn.  The pattern is for 3 styles of dress:  A basic style, a two colour dress which I made using a budget speckled yarn and a sparkly yarn.  The princess dress is again made with budget yarn and l shoestring ribbon. All patterns are made using rows for the bodice and rounds for the skirts, with a centre back opening. 
The model is my 15" build a bear cub.



If you try the patterns please leave me  a comment.















To fit: 15”/38cm Teddy Bear

Tension: 18sts x 20 rows over 4" dc using no 4 hook 
Abbreviations: Ch, chain, dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet), htr: half treble, ch: chain, sl st: slip stitch, dec: decrease
dec1dc: insert hook into next dc pull through yarn, insert hook into next dc pull through yarn, yarn over hook and pull all sts off, tog: together





Notes:

Work in back loop only when working rounds, front loop only in rows - unless otherwise stated
When working double crochet rows, make one chain at beginning of row as an edge stitch - do not count this in stitch count.
When working rounds place a marker at beg of rounds to keep track of number of rounds

Sundress 



Materials:
100g double knit yarn, Crochet hooks size 4mm and 4.5mm (or size to match tension)
Two small buttons

Bodice worked in rows
Using no 4 hook make 65ch
Next row: 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each chain to end (64dc)
Work 9 rows dc

Armhole shaping

Row 1: 1dc in each of next 12dc, make 18ch, miss next 8dc, 1dc in each of next 24dc, make 18ch, miss next 8dc, 1dc in each of next 12dcs
Row 2: 1dc in each of next 10dc, *dec1dc, 1dc in each of next 18ch, dec1dc, **1dc in each of next 20dc, rep from * to **, 1dc in each of next 10dc
Row 3: 1dc in each of next 9dc,*(dec1dc) 2 times, 1dc in each of next 14dc, (dec1dc) 2 times,** 1dc in each of next 18dc, rep from * to **, 1dc in each of next 9dc
Row 4: 1dc in each of next 8dc,*(dec1dc) 2 times, 1dc in each of next 12dc, (dec1dc) 2 times,** 1dc in each of next 16dc, rep from * to **, 1dc in each of next 8dc

fasten off yarn

Skirt (worked in rounds)
Using no 4.50 hook join yarn to base of bodice with right side facing.

Base round: 3ch, 1tr in same sp, (1tr, in next 2 sts, 2tr in next st) rep to end of round. Sl st in top of 3ch at beg of round, (84trs)
Next round: 3ch, 1tr in same sp, (1tr, in each of next 3tr, 2tr in next tr) rep to end of round. Sl st in top of 3ch at beg of round, (104trs)
Next round: 3ch, 1tr in same sp, 1tr, in each tr around
Rep last round 4 times (or length required).
Next round: 3 ch, 1tr in same sp, work 2tr in each tr to end of round. Fasten off.

To Finish
Work a row of dc along centre right back edge making 2ch buttonholes at neck edge and 1” from waist edge
Sew 2 small buttons at back to correspond with buttonholes.Fasten off ends. _____________________________________________________________________


Dress with contrast trim 



Materials: 100g double knit yarn, 20g contrast yarn
Crochet hooks size 4mm and 4.5mm (or size to match tension) Two small buttons 

Work bodice as sundress in main colour

Skirt (worked in rounds)

Using no 4.50 hook join contrast yarn to base of bodice with right side facing.
Round 1: 2ch (counts as 1dc), work 1dc in each st, slst to top of 2ch to form a round. (64dcs)
Round 2: using main colour, 3ch, 1tr in same sp, (1tr, in next 2dc, 2tr in next dc) rep to end of round. Sl st in top of 3ch at beg of round, (86trs)
Round 3: using contrast colour, work 2ch, 1dc in each tr, sl st to top of 2ch
Round 4: using main colour, 3ch, 1tr in same sp, (1tr, in each of next 3dc, 2tr in next dc) rep to end of round. Sl st in top of 3ch at beg of round, (107trs)
Rep last 2 rounds 2 times, then round 3 once, (or length required)
Next round: using main colour, 3ch, 1tr in same sp, work 2tr in each dc to end of round. Fasten off.

Neck edging: using 4mm hook and contrast work 54dcs evenly around neck edge. Fasten off yarn

Armhole edging: using 4mm hook and contrast work 30dcs evenly around armhole edge.
Change to main colour , sl st in next 8dc, 1dc in dc, (2tr in next dc)12 times, 1dc in next dc. Sl st in next 8dc. Fasten off

To finish  As sundress 




 Purple Princess dress

  Materials:  100g purple double knit yarn, 50g pink double knit yarn, Crochet hooks size 4mm and 4.5mm (or size to match tension), Two small pink buttons, ½ metre 5mm purple ribbon 

Bodice Using pink work as sundress

Skirt using purple work as sundress

Sleeves make 2 Beginning at centre of missed dc on bodice armhole, and with right side facing, join purple yarn and work 26 dc all around.
Round 1: 1dc in each of next 4dc, 1htr in each of next 4dc, 1tr in each of next 2dc, 2tr in each of next 6dc, 1tr in each of next 2dc, 1htr in each of next 4dc, 1dc in each of next 4dc (32sts)
Round 2: 1dc in each of next 4dc, 1htr in each of next 4htrs, 1tr in each of next 6trs, (miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr) 2 times 1tr in each of next 6trs, 1htr in each of next 4htrs,1dc in each on next 4dc (30sts)
Round 3: 1dc in each of next 4dc, 1htr in each of next 4htrs, 1tr in each of next 5trs, (miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr) 2 times 1tr in each of next 5trs, 1htr in each of next 4htrs,1dc in each on next 4dc (28sts)
Round 4: 1dc in each of next 4dc, 1htr in each of next 4htrs, 1tr in each of next 4trs, (miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr) 2 times 1tr in each of next 4trs, 1htr in each of next 4htrs,1dc in each on next 4dc (26sts)
Round 5: 1dc in each st around.
Fasten off

Belt

Using no2 hook and pink make (5ch, 1htr into 3rd ch from hook) 20 times, 3ch. Fasten off

To finish


Work a row of dc along centre right back edge making 2ch buttonholes at neck edge and 1” from waist edge
Loosely stitch belt around waist.  Thread ribbon through front bodice as on photo.
Sew small button on other edge to correspond with buttonholes

Finish all ends. 

Thursday 10 April 2014

Barbie Crochet Easter Bonnets




Its nearly Easter so I've crocheted a couple of bonnets for Barbie. 

If your crocheting is fairly tight you might have to go up a couple of hook sizes.  Also I've noticed that other fashion dolls seem to have bigger heads that the latest Barbie (the model in photo) Its best to check your tension, but, as these little hats are so quick to make you can redo them in a flash if necessary. 

The pattern is below so please have a try and let me know what you think.  If you find any typos or have problems with the pattern let me know then I can amend it.


You could do a matching bag from the crochet dress pattern

Have fun and Happy Easter

 






Barbie Easter Bonnet


To fit: 12" Barbie (the latest model)
Materials: 25g 4ply yarn in main and small amounts of 2 contrast ( I used Patons Soft Cotton 4ply)Crochet hook no 3.00 (or size to match tension) 
Tip: Any 4 ply yarn would do. Crochet thread isn't suitable as its too thin
Tension: (Gauge) 24sts x 32 rows to 4" over dc using 3.00 hook (check your tension and use suitable size hook)

Abbreviations:  Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet), ch: chain, slst: slip stitch, inc: increase

When working rounds work through both loops and place a marker at the beg of each round to keep track of rounds

Using no 3 hook and main colour, make 3ch

Work 6 dc in 3rd ch from hook  (or 6dc in magic loop)
Round 1: 2dc in each dc to end (12dcs)
Round 2: (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next dc) repeat to end   (18dcs)
Round 3: (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 2dc) repeat to end (24dcs)
Round 4: (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 3dc) repeat to end (30dcs)
Round 5: (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 4dc) repeat to end (36dcs)
Rounds 6:13: dc all around
Round 14: work 2tr in each dc to end
Round 15: change to contrast, (1dc, 1ch) in each tr around
fasten off yarn

Motif (make 3)

Using no 3 hook make 4 chain, slst in first ch to make loop
Work 6 dc in loop fasten off

Using a scrap of green yarn make 6ch for leaves, sew on to hat, Sew motifs over leaves as shown on photo.
Or, after sewing motifs onto hat, embroider leaves around (as shown on pink hat)
To finish: Fasten off ends.

 




 

 

 

 




Wednesday 9 April 2014

Barbie crochet dresses and bag



This green dress is the first crochet pattern I made and published for Barbie.  I've amended the pattern to reduce the number of increases by increasing only on alternate rounds.  


The bodice is made first in dc (US sc) rounds, then the skirt is worked from the base of the bodice in trs (US dc) 

 


To fit:  12” Barbie (the latest model) and most fashions dolls
Materials: 25g 4ply yarn( I used Patons Soft Cotton 4ply), Crochet hook no 3.50 (or size to match tension)
Tip: Any 4 ply yarn would do, I made the dress in some left over sock yarn which was quite interesting.  Crochet cotton is not suitable as its too thin.  

Tension: (Gauge) 24sts x 26 rows to 4” over dc (check your tension and use suitable size hook)
Abbreviations:  Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet), ch: chain, slst: slip stitch, inc: increase
Notes:
This dress is a close fit so any differences in yarn weight will make a smaller or larger garment. Cotton thread is not suitable.
Work through the back loop only for a softer fabric

Place a marker at beginning of each round to keep track of rounds

If you find any mistakes or have any queries about this pattern please leave a comment below or contact me.




Dress

 

Bodice
worked in rounds - hook through back loop only
Using no 3.50 hook make 26ch
Rounds 1:2 dc all around
Round 3: 1dc in each of next 6dc, miss 1 dc, 1dc in each of next 12dc, miss 1 dc, 1dc in each of next 6dc, (24dcs)
Round 4:8:   dc all around 

Round 9: 1dc in each of next 5dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 12 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc to end (26dcs)
Round 10:13: dc all around

(work through both loops on either side of 7ch to avoid a loop)
Round 14: 1dc in each of next 5dc, 7ch, miss 2 dc, 1dc in each of next 12dc, 7ch, miss 2dc, dc to end
Round 15: 1dc in each of next 4dc, miss next dc, 1 dc in each of 7 ch, miss next dc, 1dc in each of next 5dc, miss next dc, 1dc in each of next 4dc, miss next dc, dc in each of 7ch, miss next dc, dc to end   Sl st in next dc fasten off.


Skirt

Using no 3.5 hook, rejoin yarn to base of bodice and work in rounds as follows:
Round 1:    3ch (counts as 1 tr) (2tr in next st, 1tr in next st) repeat to end, sl 
st in top of 3ch   (38trs) approx

Round 2:    3ch, 1tr in each tr around,  sl st in top of 3ch
Round 3:    3ch, (2tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of next 2tr,) repeat to end, slst in 
top of 3ch
Round 4:    3ch, 1tr in each tr around, sl st in top of 3ch
Round 5:    3ch, (2tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of next 3tr,) repeat to end, slst in top of 3ch
Round 6:    3ch, 1tr in each tr around, sl st in top of 3ch
Round 7:    3ch, (2tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of next 4tr,) repeat to end, slst in top of 3ch

To make skirt longer continue in rounds as above following increase on every alternate round.
To finish - Neaten all ends.




Crochet Dress with contrast trim and matching bag



Materials: 25g 4ply yarn in main and contrast, (I used Patons Soft Cotton 4ply)
Crochet hook no 3.50 (or size to match tension)

Work bodice as crochet dress    


Skirt

As crochet dress but, after each treble round, work a round of dcs in contrast.  Finish skirt hem by working (1dc, 1ch) in contrast around.  Using contrast work (1dc, 1ch) around neck edge.


Bag 

work through both loops to create a firm texture

Using no 3 hook and main colour, make 12 chain
work 1dc in each ch, then continue along bottom side of ch to make 24dc
Rounds 1: 5: work 5 rounds dc
Round 6: 8: Using contrast, work 3 rounds dc
Round 9: miss 1 dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 13 chain, miss 7 dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc, miss 1 dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc,13 chain, miss 7 dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc

Motif (make one in each colour)
Using no 3 hook make 4 chain, sl st in first ch to make loop
Work 6 dc in loop fasten off

To finish: Sew seam. Fasten off ends. Attach motifs to front of bag as shown in photo




PDF pattern for download